Ingredient Spotlight : Hydroquinone skin lightening.

What is Hydroquinone?

Hydroquinone skin lightening is an aromatic organic compound that is a type of phenol, a derivative of benzene. Widely used as a topical application in skin brightening/lightening to reduce the pigmentation of skin for over 40 years. It is a prescription only ingredient POM, and products containing hydroquinone skin lightening are only available on prescription after consultation with one of our prescribers.

What are the key benefits of Hydroquinone?

It is used to treat several skin conditions related to hyperpigmentation.  Including

• Melasma.
• Liver spots/age spots.
• Freckles.
• Acne scars.
• Infammation caused by psoriasis or exczema.

How does Hydroquinone work?

It bleaches your skin by decreasing the number of melanocytes present. Melanocytes make melanin, which is what produces your skin tone. In cases of hyperpigmentation, more melanin is present due to an increase in melanocyte production. By controlling these melanocytes, your skin will become more evenly toned over time.

Can I use it every day?

It’s a tyrosinase inhibitor, in a 4% cream, HQ, can be used twice a day safely for up to 6 months. The efficacy of HQ can be enhanced with daily retinol use in conjunction.

Is there an alternative which is non prescription.

Yes creams that contains Arbutin, a bear berry plant extract that improves skin tone, lightening and evening pigmentation issues.

Which products contain it?

Obagi-C Rx C-Clarifying Serum – 4% Hydroquinone cream

C-Clarifying Serum Oily reduces hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots and melasma, for a lighter, more even skin tone.

Obagi-C Rx C-Therapy Night Cream – 4% Hydroquinone cream

C-Therapy Night Cream gradually diminishes dark spots with 4% hydroquinone and provides Vitamins C and E to your skin while you sleep.

Obagi Nu-Derm 6 Sunfader – 4% Hydroquinone cream
Sunfader with SPF 15, helps to minimise uneven skin tone and brown spots. Sunfader contains 4% hydroquinone which helps to minimize uneven skin tone and brown spots.

Obagi Nu-Derm 5 Blender – 4% Hydroquinone cream
Blender is an unique formula containing prescription HQ for the gradual lightening of hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots, sun spots, age spots, melasma, and other types of discoloration.

Obagi Nu-Derm 3 Clear – 4% Hydroquinone cream
Clear is an effective prescription HQ treatment. Which helps correct hyperpigmentation, such as dark spots, sun spots, age spots, melasma, and other types of discoloration. Also gives a healthier-looking, more even skin tone.

Ingredient Spotlight : Acetyl Hexapeptide 8

What is Acetyl Hexapeptide 8?

Commonly referred to as ‘Botox in a jar’, it is a peptide compound used to reduce the appearance of fine lines causes by repeated facial expressions, such as crow’s feet, glabellar lines or nasolabial lines. It is also often referred to by its commercial name Argireline, which refers to both acetyl hexapeptide 8 or acetyl hexapeptide 3.

It promotes the skin’s natural production of type 1 collagen, the crucial protein which forms large, eosinophilic fibres to rebuild muscles, reducing fine lines and wrinkles. This ingredient blocks signals from the nerves to the muscles, these muscles can no longer retract, causing the wrinkles to relax and soften. Wrinkles and fine lines caused by sun damage will not respond to acetyl hexapeptide 8

What are the key benefits of Acetyl Hexapeptide?

• Research shows that it can reduce wrinkle depth by up to 30% when used for 30 consecutive days.

• Due to its similar structure to botulinum toxin, acetyl hexapeptide 8 in considered an excellent, non-invasive alternative to Botox.

• Restores the skin’s natural water barrier, and helps bind water to the skin, improving dry skin. It also helps to improve skin elasticity.

How does it work?

With a similar structure to botulinum toxin, it works by controlling the production of neurotransmitters. The structure of the peptide mimics a fragment of the SNAP-25 protein and relaxes the facial muscles thereby smoothing the appearance of the skin.

Which of our FTT Skin Clinics products contain Acetyl Hexapeptide?

Recover – Active Night Cream

0.8% Retinyl Palmitate, 1% Hyaluronic Acid, 10% Acetyl Hexapeptide-8

Provides some much needed extra care for your skin to help it repair and renew from the stresses of the day whilst you sleep. It has been specifically developed to help rejuvenate through its antioxidant activity. It also re-hydrates your skin to allow overnight recovery and reveal a softer more youthful appearance for the new day ahead.

What is Glutathione?

Glutathione is tripeptide composed of 3 amino acids, cysteine, glutamic acid and glycine; these work together as a powerful antioxidant. It was originally prescribed as an immune boosting drug; however, doctors noticed the skin brightening and lightening effects and it is now also a popular skincare ingredient to help those with an uneven skin tone due to sun damage. It also neutralizes free radicals, boosts the immune system and reduces pigmentation.

What are the benefits of Glutathione?

• Brightens and evens skin tone
• Maintains skins moisture level
• Helps maintain skins elasticity
• Breaks down melanin, reducing pigmentation
• Removes free radicals, reducing the effects of photoaging

How does Glutathione work?

Glutathione inhibits melanin production by inhibiting tyrosinase activity, this activates the pheomelanin pathway, and reactive oxygen species generated from UV exposure. It lowers the skins melanin production, by producing lighter skin tones, the skin will gradually appear more like it’s original tone, very similar to the skin on your inner arm.

It  improves overall skin health, it is a powerful antioxidant and removes free radicals, preventing free radical damage and restoring the skins natural moisture barrier.

Which of our FTT products contain Glutathione?

Illuminate –Skin Brightening Serum

5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, 2% Glutathione

This highly active serum provides a poly-focal, clinical, approach to areas of skin discoloration. It contains, azelaic acid to help calm inflammation, alpha-arbutin and glutathione to inhibit melanin synthesis, the main cause of pigmentation, together with vitamins E (and) C to provide antioxidant protection.

What is Vitamin E?

Vitamin E, also known as Tocopherol which is the name used to describe 8 different forms of vitamin E, the most typical forms are d-alpha-tocopherol, d-alpha-tocopherol acetate, dl-alpha tocopherol, and dl-alpha tocopherol acetate. It is a powerhouse antioxidant that occurs naturally in the skin but can also be found in foods such as spinach, nuts, seeds, and sunflower oil. Tocopherol provides great protection for the skin when used in skincare products, which comes as no surprise as tocopherols make up 96% of the skin’s natural antioxidant defence system!

What are the benefits of Vitamin E?

• Protects against free radicals and environmental pollution
• Reduces photodamage, resulting in younger, healthier looking skin
• Strengthens the skins natural defence barrier

How does Vitamin E work?

Vitamin E is an antioxidant, it works to protect the skin from environmental damage by mopping up free radicals, preventing the skin from environmental stressors that could cause signs of premature ageing. Some types of tocopherol help to soothe skin and reduce inflammation. As we age the skins level of vitamin e decreases, reducing our natural ability to fight the signs of ageing – but topical tocopherol, found in skincare is great for replenishing the skins natural levels of vitamin E.

Which of our FTT products contain Vitamin E?

FTT C-20 – Maximum Strength Vitamin C Serum

20% L-ascorbic Acid

Clinically proven L-ascorbic acid at its peak concentration of anti-oxidant activity, which is quickly absorbed to remove free radicals to prevent skin damage, helping to brighten skin and maintain a youthful appearance. This formulation is supported with vitamin E and ferulic acid to create this light, effective day serum. Apply to clean skin on face and neck as required. Products containing more than 20% Vitamin C do not have any additional clinical benefits as this makes its half-life shorter

Glow – Exfoliating Scrub

A luxury anti-ageing wash to exfoliate and help improve the complexion. Containing glycolic acid and quartz, to stimulate, condition and polish skin to perfection. A twice a week routine that will leave skin looking younger, smoother, fresher with a radiant glow

Illuminate –Skin Brightening Serum

5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, 2% Glutathione

This highly active serum provides a poly-focal, clinical, approach to areas of skin discoloration. It contains, azelaic acid to help calm inflammation, alpha-arbutin and glutathione to inhibit melanin synthesis, the main cause of pigmentation, together with vitamins E (and) C to provide antioxidant protection.

Refine – Luxury Eye Gel

1% Lactic Acid, 7% Refined Silica, 4% Vitamin E, 1% Vitamin C

Refine is an intensive eye serum which actively works to rejuvenate and repair the signs of ageing. Containing a unique blend of ingredients including vitamin E to hydrate and lactic acid which has gentle resurfacing properties to diminish the appearance of crow’s feet and visibly improve clarity and tone.

R+ – 1% Liposomal Retinol Serum

A powerful and highly effective serum containing one per cent liposomal retinol, a stabilised vitamin A derivative which has been clinically proven to increase cell turnover. R+ will reduce pore size, resulting in firmer younger looking skin as well as reduce, visible signs of ageing including pigmentation and uneven skin tone.

Rejuvenate – Stimulating Daily Active Serum

12% Glycolic Acid, 2% Hyaluronic Acid, O.5% Salicylic Acid

Contains the natural clinically proven AHA, glycolic acid to gently remove the build-up of dead skin cells. It increases cell turnover to reveal fresh, younger looking skin and it is effective at controlling breakouts, reducing pigmentation and fine lines.

More Ingredient Spotlights will be coming to soon so keep an eye out to stay in the loop!

What is Lactic Acid?

Lactic acid is part of the Alpha Hydroxy Acids (AHAs) group, it is a naturally occurring carboxylic acid found in many foods. It’s a chemical exfoliant which breaks down and dissolves the structure of dead skin cells without causing sensitivity

What are the benefits of Lactic Acid?

• Increases the ceramides in the skin’s epidermis
• Increases water retention
• Prevents congestion
• Improves pigmentation

How does Lactic Acid work?

When applied topically lactic acid interferes with the bonds between the cells on the epidermis, breaking off dead, rough skin cell, this therefore promotes cell turnover and the growth of healthy, younger cells, resulting in a more even and smooth complexion. It also increases the ceramides in the skin’s protective barrier, this increases water retention in the dermis, creating more even and hydrated skin.

Which of our FTT Skin Clinics products contain Lactic Acid?

FTT Prime and Protect SPF 20 – Daily Moisturiser with SPF 20

Organic UVA and UVB filters, 2% Hyaluronic Acid, 2% Vitamin E, 5% Aloe Vera

An ultra-skin nourishing and anti-ageing moisturiser, providing all day hydration and protection. Harnessing peptides, to tighten and firm whilst diminishing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Skin loving antioxidants encourage cell re-growth and regeneration. Your skin will be thoroughly hydrated whilst looking fresher, firmer and tighter.

FTT Refine – Intensive Eye Serum

1% Lactic Acid, 7% Refined Silica, 4% Vitamin E, 1% Vitamin C

Refine is an intensive eye serum which actively works to rejuvenate and repair the signs of ageing. Containing a unique blend of ingredients including vitamin E to hydrate, almond oil to repair and protect against the signs of ageing and lactic acid which has gentle resurfacing properties to diminish the appearance of crow’s feet and visibly improve clarity and tone.

What is Glycolic Acid?

Glycolic acid is naturally derived from sugar cane and is arguably the best of all alpha hydroxy acids. It works to dissolve the thickened bonds of dead skin on the epidermis, exfoliating the upper surface, to reveal newer, more hydrate skin. Alpha hydroxy acids have been proven to affect the deeper layers of the skin; this is achieved by increasing the gel matrix which plumps the skin. It is often found in acne targeting products due to its ability to reduce pore size, it is also popular in anti-ageing products for its ability to rejuvenate the skin and reduce fine lines and wrinkles.

What are the benefits of Glycolic Acid?

• Unclogs blocked pore, dissolving blackheads and whiteheads
• Exfoliates the epidermis, exposing younger, plumper cells
• Removes excess oil, preventing further breakouts
• Protects against free radicals and strengthens skin barrier

How does Glycolic work?

Glycolic acid is a chemical exfoliant, it dissolves the thickened bonds of dead skin on the epidermis, allowing dead skin cells to slough off more rapidly than they would in an ordinary skin cycle; this then increases cell turnover and causes the younger, plumper skin cells to surface.

Glycolic acid also has inhibiting capacity against the production of MMP’s, also known as collagenase. This acid stimulates the skin to create more collagen, helping to fight against the visible signs of ageing such as fine lines and wrinkles.

Which of our FTT products contain Glycolic Acid?

FTT Reveal – Glycolic Wash

5% Glycolic Acid, 2% Salicylic Acid

Contains the natural clinically proven AHAs, glycolic and citric acid to gently remove the build-up of dead skin cells together with salicylic acid to remove impurities and excess oil. This combination will cleanse the skin and increase cell turnover revealing new younger looking cells while preparing the skin for the further application of recommended daily care. Massage one pump onto dry skin. Leave on the skin for a few minutes to get to work before rinsing with warm water and patting dry. Do not use as an eye make-up remover. Can be used once or twice daily.

What is Alpha Arbutin?

Alpha Arbutin (A-A) is a synthetic and functional active ingredient for skin lightening. It is a biosynthetic ingredient, derived from bearberry, bearberry extract is broken down to produce hydroquinone, hydroquinone and dextrin (a sugar) reacts with a glycosylating enzyme to produce A-A. It is also considered a safer, but not less effective than hydroquinone, even at similar or greater concentrations. It can be used for all skin types. It will lighten skin coloration, even skin tones and reduce dark pigmentation.

What are the benefits of Alpha Arbutin?

• Lightens skin.
• Evens skin tone.
• Prevents melanin formation.
• Reverses existing pigmentation such as freckles, sun damage, age spots or liver spots etc.

How does Alpha Arbutin work?

A-A blocks melanin synthesis, resulting in lighter skin. It successfully blocks skin’s tyrosinase, therefore preventing and minimising the formation of melanin. A-A also suppresses the enzymes that stimulate the production of melanin, without killing them, thus preventing the future formation of pigmentation.

Alpha Arbutin Vs Hydroquinone?

A-A  is a naturally occurring ingredient and is considered safe and effective.  Hydroquinone inhibits melanin production to lighten skin, but used over a long period of time it can damage pigment cells. Hydroquinoine is a prescription only topical medication found within the Obagi Nu-Derm Range which requires guidance, support and advice for usage.

Which of our FTT products contain It?

FTT Illuminate – Skin Lightening Serum

5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, 2% Glutathione

This highly active serum provides a poly-focal, clinical, approach to areas of skin discoloration. It contains, azelaic acid to help calm inflammation, alpha arbutin and glutathione to inhibit melanin synthesis, the main cause of pigmentation, together with vitamins E (and) C to provide antioxidant protection. Apply liberally to areas of concern at night-time only.

What is Azelaic Acid?

Azelaic acid is a dicarboxylic acid, it is naturally occurring acid found in grains such as barley, wheat and Rye. It is a white powder in its natural form. It is produced naturally by a yeast known as Malassezia furfur  which  lives on the skins surface. It is an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory so works to reduce rosacea and acne prone skin. Alongside this it also brightens and lightens the skin. Unlike many acids it doesn’t cause irritation and has been shown to reduce redness and rosacea.

What are Azelaic Acid’s benefits?

• Unblocks pores and refines the skins surface.
• Evens out skin texture.
• Reduces pigmentation caused from sun damage.
• Antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

How does Azelaic acid work?

This image displays the effects of Azelaic Acid (AzA) or keratinocytes.

1. Decreases ATP synthesis by inhibiting respiratory chain molecules in the mitochondrion.
2. Reversibly inhibits DNA synthesis and cell proliferation in keratinocytes.
3. Reduces filaggrin expression in keratinocytes

Azelaic acid is an anti-inflammatory ingredient, it helps to reduce the bumps, swelling and redness in acne prone skin, and prevents the formations of comedones. It works to treat the active acne by killing the bacteria that infects pores and decreases the production of keratin. It reduces expressions of kallikrein-5 (KLK-5) and pro-inflammatory cathelicidins such as LL-37. It also works to brighten and lighten the skin and reduce pigmentation by inhibiting the enzyme tyrosinase, which is needed for the production of melanin.

Which of our FTT products contain Azelaic Acid?

Illuminate – Skin Lightening Serum

5% Azelaic Acid, 2% Alpha Arbutin, 2% Glutathione

This highly active serum provides a poly-focal, clinical, approach to areas of skin discoloration. It contains, azelaic acid to help calm inflammation, alpha-arbutin and glutathione to inhibit melanin synthesis, the main cause of pigmentation, together with vitamins E (and) C to provide antioxidant protection. Apply liberally to areas of concern at night-time only.

What is Vitamin C?

Vitamin C, also known as ascorbic acid or ascorbate, is a vitamin found in several foods and is often sold as a dietary supplement or used in skincare. It is an essential nutrient for the repair of tissue and the enzymatic production of certain neurotransmitters. It is also used in skincare due to its anti-ageing benefits, vitamin c is a powerful antioxidant, protecting the skin from free radicals and toxins in the environment, which can lead to the breakdown of collagen, encouraging wrinkles and skin laxity.

Free radicals are essentially molecules of singular oxygen which can cause a lot of damage to proteins such as collagen and blood vessels and these can cause the skin to age. They are in high concentration in our bodies if we live in polluted areas, drink alcohol or smoke tobacco.

We cannot store Vitamin C in our bodies and do not produce it, so we must get it from our diet or apply it topically in skincare. Fortunately, it is readily absorbed in the skin and we can absorb more Vitamin C when applied topically as opposed to in dietary supplements.

What are the benefits of Vitamin C?

• Brightens and evens out skin tone
• Reduces pigmentation
• Shields skin from the visible impact of pollution
• Improves hydration

How does Vitamin C work?

When exposed to UV light the skin generates reactive oxygen species (ROS). These reactive oxygen species have a potential to start chain reactions that damage the cells, their DNA, and the cell membrane and cellular proteins, including collagen. Vitamin C is an ROS scavenger and mops up reactive oxygen species from the skins surface, preventing them from causing damage to the skin. This prevents the skin from damage caused by environmental toxins, and stops the breakdown of collagen, giving the skin and more full and brighter complexion.

Which of our products contain Vitamin C?

FTT C-10 – Professional Strength Vitamin C Serum

10% L-ascorbic Acid

Our advanced signature C-10 serum uses scientific and evidence based formulas, offering daily antioxidant protection. C-10 contains stabilized L-ascorbic acid – a form of Vit C which is easily and quickly absorbed by the skin for greater potency. Apply daily to cleansed skin before applying SPF or makeup, gently massage until fully absorbed. For external use only.

FTT C-20 – Maximum Strength Vitamin C Serum

20% L-ascorbic Acid

Clinically proven L-ascorbic acid at its peak concentration of anti-oxidant activity, which is quickly absorbed to remove free radicals to prevent skin damage, helping to brighten skin and maintain a youthful appearance. This formulation is supported with vitamin E and ferulic acid to create this light, effective day serum. Apply to clean skin on face and neck as required. Products containing more than 20% Vitamin C do not have any additional clinical benefits as this makes its half-life shorter

More Ingredient Spotlights will be coming to soon so keep an eye out to stay in the loop!

Obagi Professional C Serum – 20 %

Obagi Vitamin C serum is a gentle serum with 20% L-ascorbic acid. It is perfect for dry, sensitive and reactive skin.

Obagi Professional C Serum – 15 %

Obagi Vitamin C serum is a gentle serum with 15% L-ascorbic acid. It is perfect for dry, sensitive and reactive skin.

Obagi Professional  C Serum – 10 %

Obagi Vitamin C serum is a gentle serum with 10% L-ascorbic acid. It is perfect for dry, sensitive and reactive skin.

Obagi Professional-C Peptide Complex helps improve the appearance of firmness, and fine lines and wrinkles with Vit C and other important ingredients, such as kinetin and zeatin – synthetic forms of plant growth factors

Obagi Professional-C Microdermabrasion Polish Mask is intended for clients who have fine lines, wrinkles. This rejuvenation and replenishing facial experience is perfect for those with aging skin concerns.

What is Salicylic Acid?

It is a beta hydroxy acid (BHA), phenolic compound, meaning that the hydroxy part of the molecule is separated from the acid part by two carbon atoms, instead of one (AHA). It is derived from willow bark and belongs to the salicylates. It is oil-soluble; therefore, it works on and below the skin’s surface, penetrating through the skin’s lipid layers with ease.

What are the benefits of Salicylic Acid?

• Unclogs blocked pore, dissolving blackheads and whiteheads.
• Anti-inflammatory, reduces redness in existing acne.
• Removes excess oil, preventing further breakouts.

How does Salicylic Acid work?

It unclogs block pores by breaking apart desmosomes (attachments between cells in the outer layer of the skin), this allows the contents of the blocked pore to loosen, and be dissolved by the salicylic acid, along with the excess oil in the pore. It also has anti-inflammatory properties, causing red inflamed spots to fade faster.

Which of our FTT products contain Salicylic Acid?

Reveal – Glycolic Wash

5% Glycolic Acid, 2% Salicylic Acid

Contains the natural clinically proven AHAs, glycolic and citric acid to gently remove the build-up of dead skin cells together with salicylic acid to remove impurities and excess oil. This combination will cleanse the skin and increase cell turnover revealing new younger looking cells while preparing the skin for the further application of recommended daily care. Massage one pump onto dry skin. Leave on the skin for a few minutes to get to work before rinsing with warm water and patting dry. Do not use as an eye make-up remover. Can be used once or twice daily.

FTT Rejuvenate – Stimulating Daily Active Serum

12% Glycolic Acid, 2% Hyaluronic Acid, O.5% Salicylic Acid

Contains the natural clinically proven AHA, glycolic acid to gently remove the build-up of dead skin cells. It increases cell turnover to reveal the fresh, younger looking skin and it is effective at controlling breakouts, reducing pigmentation and fine lines.